Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
